Q. I read on another forum that vets have started giving vaccinations in the legs (1 vaccination per leg) instead of the neck so if the dog develops cancer from the vaccinations they know which one it was.
I'd never heard this until today. My vet, and every vet I've used before, gives vaccinations in the dog's neck. Where does your vet give vaccinations?
It was just from a forum user that I heard it from.
I'd never heard this until today. My vet, and every vet I've used before, gives vaccinations in the dog's neck. Where does your vet give vaccinations?
It was just from a forum user that I heard it from.
A. GREAT question! While I have limited information about Caine vaccine protocols, but have provided a resource that discusses the low risk of Vaccine Asoociated Sarcomas in dogs) but I have given you the most recent information about cats, which may be the reason that dog owners are beginning to think differently about vaccine sites. There is a risk ( which, while vaccine manufacturers claim is about 1 or 2 in 10,000) for developing Vaccine Associated Sarcoma, cat breeders and fanciers feel that this reaction is vastly under-reported.
http://www.thecatsite.com/Health/225/VaccineAssociated-Sarcoma-In-Cats.html
To combat the risk of cats dying from this condition, veterianrians developed, working together,a protocol, while not diminishing the risk, makes it possible to treat more effectively and to be able to know precisely where each vaccine was injected.
http://www.cfa.org/articles/health/vaccination-guidelines.html#recommendations
It is no longer recommended that cats be injected at the scruff of the neck. This protocol has been recommended for many years now, as breeders and veterinarians work together in concert.
Since practitioners report that this reaction is extremely rare in dogs, the protocol for canines apparently has not changed as of yet. I would imagine that in the future, as research continues, that this may be considered down the line.
http://www.zzcat.com/TumorTidbits/Vaccination-Sarcomas-in-Dogs.txt
The reason that vaccines are given in the leg, actually, is that if a sarcoma develops, it is practical to amputate if necessary. Since this is a virulent and rapidly growing tumor, if it develops on the neck area, multiple surgeries are often required in cats, with a poor prognosis. In fact some veterinarians are injecting certain vaccines into the base of the tail, as tail amputations are far less drastic than legs.
I would discuss your concerns with your veterinarian, however. I was mortified last year, when questioning a local veterinarin ( in case of emergency) where he vaccinated, and he still uses the scruff for cats. Of course, I wouldn't ever use his practice since he obviously has not kept up with the research and is ignoring the AVMA's recommendations for felines.
Hope this helps!
Troublesniffer
Owned by cats for over 40 years
Former Siamese and Oriental Breeder
Freelance writer/blogger for http://www.petside.com
http://www.thecatsite.com/Health/225/VaccineAssociated-Sarcoma-In-Cats.html
To combat the risk of cats dying from this condition, veterianrians developed, working together,a protocol, while not diminishing the risk, makes it possible to treat more effectively and to be able to know precisely where each vaccine was injected.
http://www.cfa.org/articles/health/vaccination-guidelines.html#recommendations
It is no longer recommended that cats be injected at the scruff of the neck. This protocol has been recommended for many years now, as breeders and veterinarians work together in concert.
Since practitioners report that this reaction is extremely rare in dogs, the protocol for canines apparently has not changed as of yet. I would imagine that in the future, as research continues, that this may be considered down the line.
http://www.zzcat.com/TumorTidbits/Vaccination-Sarcomas-in-Dogs.txt
The reason that vaccines are given in the leg, actually, is that if a sarcoma develops, it is practical to amputate if necessary. Since this is a virulent and rapidly growing tumor, if it develops on the neck area, multiple surgeries are often required in cats, with a poor prognosis. In fact some veterinarians are injecting certain vaccines into the base of the tail, as tail amputations are far less drastic than legs.
I would discuss your concerns with your veterinarian, however. I was mortified last year, when questioning a local veterinarin ( in case of emergency) where he vaccinated, and he still uses the scruff for cats. Of course, I wouldn't ever use his practice since he obviously has not kept up with the research and is ignoring the AVMA's recommendations for felines.
Hope this helps!
Troublesniffer
Owned by cats for over 40 years
Former Siamese and Oriental Breeder
Freelance writer/blogger for http://www.petside.com
How often do rats need to see the vet?
Q. I am thinking about getting a small animal. Well, two if I get rats since they like company. But one thing I keep hearing is that they need to go to the vet a lot. Is that true? How often do they usually need to go to the vet? Not just for normal check-ups. That too, but mainly I've been hearing that they are prone to getting ill and such.
A. They should not need to go to the vet for a regular check up, they only need to go if they're sick.
But how often they get sick can vary a lot. It depends on where you get them, genetics/how well they were bred, how well you take care of them, and a lot of it is luck of the draw.
If you get rats from the pet store that aren't bred very well or cared for well, there is a good chance they will be sick when you get them so they might need a vet visit then, but you might be lucky and they will be healthy. Rats from reputable breeders are bred to get sick less and are taken care of properly so they should not be sick when you get them.
But after that it is hard to tell. Some rats just end up being sickly and get respiratory infections every few months so they need to see the vet for that. Some rats are very healthy and may never need to go in their life. Some may just need to go once or twice for a slight infection or an abscess.
They definitely are prone to illness though, so only get them if you can afford the vet if they do end up needing it. They can get respiratory infections, abscesses, cysts, tumors (females are very prone to benign mammary tumors, but either gender can get cancers) or other kinds of general infections.
Just make sure you do plenty of research on what bedding and housing they should have (certain things will make them sick), feed them a proper balanced and healthy diet (if they're healthier they'll get sick less), try to get them from a good breeder, and give them plenty of play time and exercise. This will prevent illness the best you can, but have a vet lined up before you get them in case. I would suggest having at least $100 saved for each rat you get, and yes make sure you get at least 2 rats, they should never be alone.
Personally, my current rats have not had to go to the vet very often at all. I have 5 rats right now, 4 were from pet stores and all needed to go within the first month I got them because of respiratory infections. One was from a rescue so it had good care and a vet available so was healthy when I got it. But since I first got them, only one has had to go to the vet a second time, and she is close to 2 (although it was quite an expensive trip, like $400 because of surgery). But like I said, some rats are just sickly throughout their whole lives, no way to tell how often your rats will have to go.
But how often they get sick can vary a lot. It depends on where you get them, genetics/how well they were bred, how well you take care of them, and a lot of it is luck of the draw.
If you get rats from the pet store that aren't bred very well or cared for well, there is a good chance they will be sick when you get them so they might need a vet visit then, but you might be lucky and they will be healthy. Rats from reputable breeders are bred to get sick less and are taken care of properly so they should not be sick when you get them.
But after that it is hard to tell. Some rats just end up being sickly and get respiratory infections every few months so they need to see the vet for that. Some rats are very healthy and may never need to go in their life. Some may just need to go once or twice for a slight infection or an abscess.
They definitely are prone to illness though, so only get them if you can afford the vet if they do end up needing it. They can get respiratory infections, abscesses, cysts, tumors (females are very prone to benign mammary tumors, but either gender can get cancers) or other kinds of general infections.
Just make sure you do plenty of research on what bedding and housing they should have (certain things will make them sick), feed them a proper balanced and healthy diet (if they're healthier they'll get sick less), try to get them from a good breeder, and give them plenty of play time and exercise. This will prevent illness the best you can, but have a vet lined up before you get them in case. I would suggest having at least $100 saved for each rat you get, and yes make sure you get at least 2 rats, they should never be alone.
Personally, my current rats have not had to go to the vet very often at all. I have 5 rats right now, 4 were from pet stores and all needed to go within the first month I got them because of respiratory infections. One was from a rescue so it had good care and a vet available so was healthy when I got it. But since I first got them, only one has had to go to the vet a second time, and she is close to 2 (although it was quite an expensive trip, like $400 because of surgery). But like I said, some rats are just sickly throughout their whole lives, no way to tell how often your rats will have to go.
What are some good wooden items to sell on line?
Q. Unless you live in a cave in Patagonia you know that the economy has tanked. I have a pretty much complete wood shop. What kind of items can I make to sell on line, eBay and such, that would sell well? I can come in on weekends and churn them out, make a pile of them to sell but it has to be something that people want and will move well.
To V.W.: You are the epitome of what is wrong with Yahoo Answers. That vulgar comment about my mom was juvenile and and the absolute peak of ignorance and shows what a worthless human being you are. My mom just recently died after a valiant struggle with cancer. The medical bills have just about wiped us out. This is one reason why I'm trying to raise cash. I wish I could show YOUR mom what you said.
To V.W.: You are the epitome of what is wrong with Yahoo Answers. That vulgar comment about my mom was juvenile and and the absolute peak of ignorance and shows what a worthless human being you are. My mom just recently died after a valiant struggle with cancer. The medical bills have just about wiped us out. This is one reason why I'm trying to raise cash. I wish I could show YOUR mom what you said.
A. The most surprising and profitable wood selling businesses that I know of are small and (prepare yourself) for animals. Particularly chinchillas.
Chins n Quills was a great website (though currently down) that features chinchilla info. Members of CnQ have their own part time, at home businesses that they do for fun. That would be an EXCELLENT forum to join and advertise. However, you have to be careful. Some of the members are SUPER strict and will catch onto any little mistake you make when it comes to selling, pricing, or making the materials. The good news is that there isn't much you need to think about since the designs are simple, easy, and don't require much.
Things you'll have to look out for:
-Wood; Not ALL wood is safe for chinchillas. The most commonly used and preferred is kiln dried pine. I recently went to my Home Depot and bought a 1" x 8" x 10' board for less than $10. That would be enough to make quite a few shelves or homes that could ultimately sell for around $50-80.
-Adhesion; Not all glue is safe. Most buyers will look to see what other customers have said about your designs and such. Things to avoid are nails, staples, and screws. Not something very friendly to chew on (which chinchillas are big on chewing). I've heard that Elmer's Nontoxic Wood Glue used to hold two pieces together plus some clamps over night is best.
-Hardware; A lot of owners, such as myself, like to hang things in their chinnie's cage. Shelves, ledges, homes, etc. Anything that can be hooked up to the side of the cage is fine by me! I've bought things that use screws to mount, but not to hold the general frame together. You'll have to look at different things people are using.
-Style; People who can save up a little money to spend on their pets like to spend on something that appeals visually to them and instinctively to their chinchillas. Chinchillas like to jump and they poop A LOT. A growing and popular trend is adding a little piece of wood on the shelf on the side it is to be mounted to the cage so the poos won't fling out into the rest of the room. Chinchillas like to jump when they're awake, cuddle some place snug when they're ready to sleep, and like things to chew on. Things that are really thin aren't often admired by owners because their chins will chew right through it. However, thick is not a huge deal. Anything between 1 inch thick and 2 inches thick will usually satisfy. (:
Finally, if you have a wife that likes to sew, there are even more things you can do with sewing! Fleece is the ONLY material safe for chinchillas since it isn't made out of strings they can choke on. I have a tube mounted to the wall of my chinchilla's cage that is covered in fleece, he has fleece cage liners instead of bedding, he has a fleece bed, a fleece hammock home, and a fleece toy he likes to cuddle with.
I really recommend you research this before you commit to it. It's really not super complicated, but if one person says something bad about you and word gets out, it can just tank your career. People want reliable since chinchillas generally can cost anywhere from $100 to thousands of dollars depending on the coloration. They are an exotic pet, which means vet bills easily peak hundreds of dollars on any occasion and no one wants to have to deal with that.
Three websites I'd recommend you look at include:
http://www.freewebs.com/simplychintastic/
http://www.geocities.com/forchinatechins/chincessories.htm
http://diamondbarchins.com/supplies.aspx
I'd recommend you look at:
-style
-how they are mounted
-how they are cut
-general dimensions
and perhaps:
-fleece
if you sew with fleece, it's very important that the threads are not in a place where chins can pick at them. You should research it because that is also something that isn't hard to learn, but vital to know.
If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to contact me. If you need any advice from a chin owner also. If you open up your shop, I'd love to be one of your first customers! (:
Chins n Quills was a great website (though currently down) that features chinchilla info. Members of CnQ have their own part time, at home businesses that they do for fun. That would be an EXCELLENT forum to join and advertise. However, you have to be careful. Some of the members are SUPER strict and will catch onto any little mistake you make when it comes to selling, pricing, or making the materials. The good news is that there isn't much you need to think about since the designs are simple, easy, and don't require much.
Things you'll have to look out for:
-Wood; Not ALL wood is safe for chinchillas. The most commonly used and preferred is kiln dried pine. I recently went to my Home Depot and bought a 1" x 8" x 10' board for less than $10. That would be enough to make quite a few shelves or homes that could ultimately sell for around $50-80.
-Adhesion; Not all glue is safe. Most buyers will look to see what other customers have said about your designs and such. Things to avoid are nails, staples, and screws. Not something very friendly to chew on (which chinchillas are big on chewing). I've heard that Elmer's Nontoxic Wood Glue used to hold two pieces together plus some clamps over night is best.
-Hardware; A lot of owners, such as myself, like to hang things in their chinnie's cage. Shelves, ledges, homes, etc. Anything that can be hooked up to the side of the cage is fine by me! I've bought things that use screws to mount, but not to hold the general frame together. You'll have to look at different things people are using.
-Style; People who can save up a little money to spend on their pets like to spend on something that appeals visually to them and instinctively to their chinchillas. Chinchillas like to jump and they poop A LOT. A growing and popular trend is adding a little piece of wood on the shelf on the side it is to be mounted to the cage so the poos won't fling out into the rest of the room. Chinchillas like to jump when they're awake, cuddle some place snug when they're ready to sleep, and like things to chew on. Things that are really thin aren't often admired by owners because their chins will chew right through it. However, thick is not a huge deal. Anything between 1 inch thick and 2 inches thick will usually satisfy. (:
Finally, if you have a wife that likes to sew, there are even more things you can do with sewing! Fleece is the ONLY material safe for chinchillas since it isn't made out of strings they can choke on. I have a tube mounted to the wall of my chinchilla's cage that is covered in fleece, he has fleece cage liners instead of bedding, he has a fleece bed, a fleece hammock home, and a fleece toy he likes to cuddle with.
I really recommend you research this before you commit to it. It's really not super complicated, but if one person says something bad about you and word gets out, it can just tank your career. People want reliable since chinchillas generally can cost anywhere from $100 to thousands of dollars depending on the coloration. They are an exotic pet, which means vet bills easily peak hundreds of dollars on any occasion and no one wants to have to deal with that.
Three websites I'd recommend you look at include:
http://www.freewebs.com/simplychintastic/
http://www.geocities.com/forchinatechins/chincessories.htm
http://diamondbarchins.com/supplies.aspx
I'd recommend you look at:
-style
-how they are mounted
-how they are cut
-general dimensions
and perhaps:
-fleece
if you sew with fleece, it's very important that the threads are not in a place where chins can pick at them. You should research it because that is also something that isn't hard to learn, but vital to know.
If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to contact me. If you need any advice from a chin owner also. If you open up your shop, I'd love to be one of your first customers! (:
Will growth retardant sprayed along a fence line of a horse pasture have any effect on horses?
Q. With 15 paddocks we would like to spray a grass growth retardant along the fence line to cut down on the amount of trimming. We are concerned that it may have some effect on the horses. We are already planting endophyte free grass to eliminate stomach problems in the horses.
A. Check with your vet and with your local agricultural extension agent about this, Nancy. They are in the best position to advise you as to whether or not the chemical you are thinking of using is likely to be toxic to your horses. Also, make a point of READING THE LABEL on whatever product you decide to use, and make sure you understand how to mix and apply the product before you use it. Another thing you need to do is pay close attention to the MDSS information that is provided with all such chemicals, and abide by that. MDSS stands for Material Data Safety Sheet. This is something that all manufacturers of chemicals must provide with or on their products- that's required by federal law. MDSS sheets contain information about freezing points, boiling points, corrosiveness, acidity, and other properties of chemicals, including fire and explosion hazard data. There will also be information about what chemicals react badly when exposed to one another or to things like heat or cold. IF the product you are thinking of using does not have a MDSS symbol on its label, then you should ask the manager of the place you're buying it from if you can access the MDSS online at the manufacturer's website.
Remember, the more you know and understand about chemicals of this type, the better equipped you will be to protect both yourself and your horses. Some retardants and herbicides are very toxic, others are less so. It varies. That's why you need to research this thoroughly before you decide what to do or to use. Good luck.
Remember, the more you know and understand about chemicals of this type, the better equipped you will be to protect both yourself and your horses. Some retardants and herbicides are very toxic, others are less so. It varies. That's why you need to research this thoroughly before you decide what to do or to use. Good luck.
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