Q. I have a big stainless steel deep fryer, I need to know how long and what temperature to deep fry the turkey.
A. I fry my turkeys at 350 for 3.5 min per pound. So that's 56 minutes for a 16 lb bird.
One trick I use is to let the oil heat up to 375 before you put the turkey in, because a cool bird will drop the temperature quick! If the oil doesn't stay hot, it can seep into the bird, and it will be oily and the skin won't be crispy.
Also, while I'm on the subject, a couple of words about safety.
ALWAYS set up outside, away from flammable things (like your house). Have a fire extinguisher handy. A water hose is NOT a fire extinguisher, and will make an oil fire worse.
DO NOT use too much oil! You want to put the turkey in the pot and fill it up with water until it covers the bird. Then take the turkey out, and mark the water level. Dump the water out, and fill the pot up with oil to your mark. That way, the oil doesn't spill over when you put the turkey in.
ALWAYS dry the turkey before you put it in the hot oil. You've heard oil and water don't mix? Well, water and hot oil REALLY don't mix. Any water on the bird will boil instantly, and you'll have oil spitting at you.
DO NOT let the oil temperature get too hot. The reason peanut oil is preferred is it has a high smoke point, but it will burn if it gets too hot. Keep it below 375, max. This means constantly checking the temperature, and controlling the gas valve, which brings me to...
DO NOT leave the fryer unattended. You'll need to be keeping an eye on the oil temperature, and you don't want kids or pets to be poking around your setup.
And finally, BE CAREFUL. Frying a turkey is a delicious way to enjoy Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, or really any dinner, but it can be dangerous. Having to share your turkey with your local firefighters or EMTs will ruin the experience.
One trick I use is to let the oil heat up to 375 before you put the turkey in, because a cool bird will drop the temperature quick! If the oil doesn't stay hot, it can seep into the bird, and it will be oily and the skin won't be crispy.
Also, while I'm on the subject, a couple of words about safety.
ALWAYS set up outside, away from flammable things (like your house). Have a fire extinguisher handy. A water hose is NOT a fire extinguisher, and will make an oil fire worse.
DO NOT use too much oil! You want to put the turkey in the pot and fill it up with water until it covers the bird. Then take the turkey out, and mark the water level. Dump the water out, and fill the pot up with oil to your mark. That way, the oil doesn't spill over when you put the turkey in.
ALWAYS dry the turkey before you put it in the hot oil. You've heard oil and water don't mix? Well, water and hot oil REALLY don't mix. Any water on the bird will boil instantly, and you'll have oil spitting at you.
DO NOT let the oil temperature get too hot. The reason peanut oil is preferred is it has a high smoke point, but it will burn if it gets too hot. Keep it below 375, max. This means constantly checking the temperature, and controlling the gas valve, which brings me to...
DO NOT leave the fryer unattended. You'll need to be keeping an eye on the oil temperature, and you don't want kids or pets to be poking around your setup.
And finally, BE CAREFUL. Frying a turkey is a delicious way to enjoy Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, or really any dinner, but it can be dangerous. Having to share your turkey with your local firefighters or EMTs will ruin the experience.
How do I take care of my captured red eared slider turtle?
Q. My family and I where driving in the neighborhood and saw a turtle in the middle of the road. We decided to keep it because my sister has always wanted a pet turtle. I just need a little advice on what it likes to eat and what its habitat is like and stuff like that so please help me!
A. Here's an aquatic turtle essentials check list:
1) UVB lighting; Zoomed makes the best long tube style fluorescent UVB bulb to date, and T-rex makes the best MVB (mercury vapor bulb) on the market to date. Bulbs should be changed every year after which time UVB will no longer be produced even if visible light still is. UVB light is used in a reptile's metabolism, like food digestion and calcium absorption.
2) Heat lamp positioned over the dry land portion of the enclosure. Separate from the UVB lighting, except if using a MVB (these bulbs emit heat and UVB from one bulb.) Basking temp for most species is 90 F.
3) REALLY good filtration system. Canister filtration is best for turtles, especially larger turtles. They are made to handle large volumes of water and large volumes of waste. Rena, Fluval, and Marineland are a few makers to look at. Be sure to do more frequent maintenance on the systems than you would with fish (more waste.)
4) Don't use substrate; the turtle won't notice, unless you get a soft shell or a snapper. Substrate like gravel will hold poo and uneaten food and cause poor water quality. If you must have substrate, get a gravel vacuum and use it A LOT to keep it really clean.
5) The enclosure should be 25% dry land (turtle should be able to get completely dry) and 75% water. Water should be 1.5 - 2 times the length of the turtle's shell deep. You'll need a turtle dock, or you can make your own, like stacking slate, red brick, ceramic tiles or pottery (no glazing.) A general rule of thumb is 10 gallons of tank space per inch of turtle length. For example, a 4 inch turtle should have a 40 gallons tank, at least.
6) Depending on the turtle's diet (most are omnivorous; they need veggie and "meat") you will need to buy appropriate food stuffs. Here's a good veggie list to use: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutritionframeset.html
Good "meat" sources are: feeder insects (like crickets, phoenix worms, horn worms, silk worms, red wrigglers, night crawlers, meal worms (occasionally; their outer shell is hard to digest), and wax worms (occasionally; they are mostly fat), feeder fish (feeder guppies are more nutritious than feeder goldfish), ghost shrimp, cooked unseasoned chicken, turkey, and beef heart, and tuna (in water, not oil). You can also buy pelleted food, but do not feed exclusively; it is not a complete diet.
7) Calcium supplementation. Using a cuttle bone (just place in the water with the turtle) will help. You should also sprinkle some on food items several times a week; feeder insects are easiest as they will have to be hand fed. Plain calcium is best; you can feed it as often as you like. Calcium with vitamin D3 added should not be fed too often because the turtle can overdose on D3.
8) Water heater. The water temp should be heated and maintained at about 78 F.
1) UVB lighting; Zoomed makes the best long tube style fluorescent UVB bulb to date, and T-rex makes the best MVB (mercury vapor bulb) on the market to date. Bulbs should be changed every year after which time UVB will no longer be produced even if visible light still is. UVB light is used in a reptile's metabolism, like food digestion and calcium absorption.
2) Heat lamp positioned over the dry land portion of the enclosure. Separate from the UVB lighting, except if using a MVB (these bulbs emit heat and UVB from one bulb.) Basking temp for most species is 90 F.
3) REALLY good filtration system. Canister filtration is best for turtles, especially larger turtles. They are made to handle large volumes of water and large volumes of waste. Rena, Fluval, and Marineland are a few makers to look at. Be sure to do more frequent maintenance on the systems than you would with fish (more waste.)
4) Don't use substrate; the turtle won't notice, unless you get a soft shell or a snapper. Substrate like gravel will hold poo and uneaten food and cause poor water quality. If you must have substrate, get a gravel vacuum and use it A LOT to keep it really clean.
5) The enclosure should be 25% dry land (turtle should be able to get completely dry) and 75% water. Water should be 1.5 - 2 times the length of the turtle's shell deep. You'll need a turtle dock, or you can make your own, like stacking slate, red brick, ceramic tiles or pottery (no glazing.) A general rule of thumb is 10 gallons of tank space per inch of turtle length. For example, a 4 inch turtle should have a 40 gallons tank, at least.
6) Depending on the turtle's diet (most are omnivorous; they need veggie and "meat") you will need to buy appropriate food stuffs. Here's a good veggie list to use: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutritionframeset.html
Good "meat" sources are: feeder insects (like crickets, phoenix worms, horn worms, silk worms, red wrigglers, night crawlers, meal worms (occasionally; their outer shell is hard to digest), and wax worms (occasionally; they are mostly fat), feeder fish (feeder guppies are more nutritious than feeder goldfish), ghost shrimp, cooked unseasoned chicken, turkey, and beef heart, and tuna (in water, not oil). You can also buy pelleted food, but do not feed exclusively; it is not a complete diet.
7) Calcium supplementation. Using a cuttle bone (just place in the water with the turtle) will help. You should also sprinkle some on food items several times a week; feeder insects are easiest as they will have to be hand fed. Plain calcium is best; you can feed it as often as you like. Calcium with vitamin D3 added should not be fed too often because the turtle can overdose on D3.
8) Water heater. The water temp should be heated and maintained at about 78 F.
Hunting:How long does it take for a predator to typically find the bait?
Q. Not to shoot but just to get some pictures to make thanksgiving with my family a bit less awkward and spark a conversation. So if I were to get in a blind tomorrow at say noon and put a raw steak 3 feet in front of my blind with the wind blowing toward a place I have seen foxes how long would it take a predator from about a mile away to find the bait? Typically from your expirence.
Ps its legal to bait animals here.
Oh! Also, are predators like deer? Should I wear scent away? Will it matter?
Ps its legal to bait animals here.
Oh! Also, are predators like deer? Should I wear scent away? Will it matter?
A. No, no and no.
Steak, really? Really? How many 4 legged foxes do you see buying steaks? Really?
I am an Alaskan trapper. I used to have a pet fox - it was litter box trained and loved to play in the back yard with me and the kids. I learned allot about foxes from him.
Fox - have a 'thing' for birds - and go totally nuts for fried chicken and they are not pickey about what part of the bird it came from since they can chew up the bones and their stomach acid can break them down.
The quickest way I can thing to get some fox in front of you - is go buy a box of that nasty Banquet forzen chicken and heat it up as the directions say. Then take half the warm pieces out at night and break them into small pieces and scater them - leaving a trail to your blind. The next night, do the same - and be waiting in the morning on the second day. You might get lucky on the first morning, but, most fox follow a two day pattern looking for food depending on how the wind is blowing and the temperature.
When I lived on Kodiak Island, Alaska we cooked up one of those Butterball smoked turkeys for Thanksgiving. It was pretty good - but - when I hauled the carcass, skin and bones out and used the pieces on the trap line - it was one of my most sucessful weekends ever.
The fried chicken works great - because the fox are mostly grease starved - since all the mice, rabbits, birds etc are pretty lean. However, for this trick to work - they have to have eaten a sample and learned just how yummy the fried chicken is. Because like your steak - they really dont know what it is unless they had tasted it.
Normally - I would take a pigeon/grouse carcass or two and rip their bodies apart and set down a trail toward the blind. This is something a fox knows - and - they will usually follow the trail of feathers in the hope a small tasty part had also fallen off.
Good luck
Steak, really? Really? How many 4 legged foxes do you see buying steaks? Really?
I am an Alaskan trapper. I used to have a pet fox - it was litter box trained and loved to play in the back yard with me and the kids. I learned allot about foxes from him.
Fox - have a 'thing' for birds - and go totally nuts for fried chicken and they are not pickey about what part of the bird it came from since they can chew up the bones and their stomach acid can break them down.
The quickest way I can thing to get some fox in front of you - is go buy a box of that nasty Banquet forzen chicken and heat it up as the directions say. Then take half the warm pieces out at night and break them into small pieces and scater them - leaving a trail to your blind. The next night, do the same - and be waiting in the morning on the second day. You might get lucky on the first morning, but, most fox follow a two day pattern looking for food depending on how the wind is blowing and the temperature.
When I lived on Kodiak Island, Alaska we cooked up one of those Butterball smoked turkeys for Thanksgiving. It was pretty good - but - when I hauled the carcass, skin and bones out and used the pieces on the trap line - it was one of my most sucessful weekends ever.
The fried chicken works great - because the fox are mostly grease starved - since all the mice, rabbits, birds etc are pretty lean. However, for this trick to work - they have to have eaten a sample and learned just how yummy the fried chicken is. Because like your steak - they really dont know what it is unless they had tasted it.
Normally - I would take a pigeon/grouse carcass or two and rip their bodies apart and set down a trail toward the blind. This is something a fox knows - and - they will usually follow the trail of feathers in the hope a small tasty part had also fallen off.
Good luck
How long does it take for Betta fish to breed?
Q. i have a male and female betta that i want to breed and want to about how long it takes. I already checked youtube and since the videos are sped up, i don't know how long that really is.
A. The takes the average novice approximately 6 months to a year of researching and gathering suppliesin order to successfully breed betta fish. It is NOT easy. It is NOT cheap. It is NOT for everyone. Here is a list of suppliesyou'd need just to start off-
Breeding quality bettas (NOT PET STORE QUALITY.) 5 gallon housing for male 5 gallon housing for female Spawning tank 30 gallon + growout tank Sponge filters Fully Submersible Heaters Nets Turkey Basters Air pumps (for BBS) Air line tubing (for BBS) Salt Medication for outbreaks Live Brine Shrimp Culture Live Microworm Culture Source of Infusoria Live plants High quality food to condition pair 100+ Jars to separate fry A way to heat 100+ jars of adultfry
I'm just going to stop here, even though the list could literally go on and on.
Spend a LOT more time researching before you even think about breeding bettas. Make sure you realize you know what you're getting yourself into, and make sure you can justify how you are contributing to the betta splenden species.
Good sources for information include Bettatalk.com, Bettysplendens.com, BettaFish.com, and UltimateBettas.com.
*Deciding on a whim to throw a male and a female into a tank together WILL RESULT IN DAMAGED / DEAD FISH.
Breeding quality bettas (NOT PET STORE QUALITY.) 5 gallon housing for male 5 gallon housing for female Spawning tank 30 gallon + growout tank Sponge filters Fully Submersible Heaters Nets Turkey Basters Air pumps (for BBS) Air line tubing (for BBS) Salt Medication for outbreaks Live Brine Shrimp Culture Live Microworm Culture Source of Infusoria Live plants High quality food to condition pair 100+ Jars to separate fry A way to heat 100+ jars of adultfry
I'm just going to stop here, even though the list could literally go on and on.
Spend a LOT more time researching before you even think about breeding bettas. Make sure you realize you know what you're getting yourself into, and make sure you can justify how you are contributing to the betta splenden species.
Good sources for information include Bettatalk.com, Bettysplendens.com, BettaFish.com, and UltimateBettas.com.
*Deciding on a whim to throw a male and a female into a tank together WILL RESULT IN DAMAGED / DEAD FISH.
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